Domaine Berthelemot, Beaune

Brigitte Berthelemot acquired Yves Darviot's vines last year and her first vintage has been a real success. She is lucky to have retained the services of the winemaker Marc Cugney who helped Yves with his wonderful wines. One always frets a little with change in ownership as the philosophy will naturally change. But here we are delighted the change has only been for the better. The Longbois is ready to be drunk now, while the Close des Mouches is a real brooder for a white.

Wine to watch: Beaune Longbois Blanc 2007 £19.50 per bottle